Four New Watches Not To Miss From Vacheron Constantin

It’s no secret I’m a Vacheron fan. If you’ve been unfortunate enough to stumble across my page on Insta, you will see a wide array of offerings from Vacheron. The brand is just wonderfully elegant, focused on technical, high complication matchmaking and always a far more interesting option that its biggest competitor, Patek. I tend to loose sleep at the thought of owning a black dial Overseas on rubber strap and a red gold 1921. My ultimate two watch collection - it will happen, one day. For now, here are four new references that caught the eye at Watches and Wonders:

Platinum Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date

Theres nothing quite like the heft of platinum in a watch. Nothing says quality like platinum. The Patrimony is a beautiful line of dress watches from Vacheron. This wonderfully svelte dress watch has a 42.5 mm round case and houses the self-winding Manufacture 2460 R31L calibre which only requires a one-day correction only once every 122 years. All function settings are performed via the crown and the matching grey moon phase at 6 is a nice touch.

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Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin Skeleton

The showstopper. Not one for my wrist, but I can see it on others and how dope it would be. The 41.5 mm-diameter is a triumph of watchmaking. The solid gold case houses the Calibre 1120 QPSQ, and is an openworked and ultra-thin - the ultimate combo. The transparent caseback shows the gear trains which are NAC-treated, and a standout in colour from behind.

All in, it’s a badass watch, which makes Vacheron relevant in a modern, younger watch loving world.

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Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin

My pick of the new realeases. We have seen the the blue dial Overseas perpetual calendar with rubber strap (which I happen to think is a real winner), but the collector market was gagging for a full gold bracelet. Well, they got it! and its drop dead gorgeous. Oh, and the dial features three different finishes, sunburst, snailed and circular satin-finished, which no doubt will provide endless fun in the sun when on the wrist.

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Traditionnelle Tourbillon Chronograph

Classically Vacheron, this Traditionnelle combines a monopusher chronograph with a tourbillon. While not a complicated watch guy myself, I like the balance of the dial achieved here (and who doesn’t like a monopusher). The tourbillon mechanism is accentuated by a new carriage configuration, which I for one am excited to shoot with a macro lens when the opportunity arises.

For further info, click here.

Interview: Richard + Maria Habring

During lockdown, like many, I have had lots of time to think. Lots of time to be appreciative . The garden has been a source of much joy, the movement of the trees in the wind, the sun, food at dinner time. Laughter. And last week, I wondered “why the hell haven’t I started an interview series on the website?”. So here we are, and with two of my favourite people, Richard and Maria Habring from Habring2. Hope you enjoy:

Guys, could you tell me a little about the start of the business, did you always know you wanted to start something of your own or was there a moment that triggered it?

Well, there was this concept we started to work on right after we met in 2001. A concept for maximized customer satisfaction in watch business, strongly influenced by Maria’s non-watchmaking approach as former travel agent. The concept was great but after presenting it to some watch brands officials it turned out that the watch business was not interested in such simple issue. But of course, they used excuses to get it from their tables, such like “I can’t work with my wife!”

What did you want to achieve by starting?  

To prove that we could make it work, and furthermore has a lot of potential. Looking back to over 15 years now including some economic stress tests like recent pandemic it makes us happy that we did not listen to those brand officials in 2001.

What were the unique selling points in your minds when you started?

The direct communication between customers and the makers. Couples (consider the wife who usually has the last word on a purchase!) appreciate it very much to speak to other couples. Watch production is usually a very male, sometime testosterone smelly business, adding a female front role opens doors but do not tell the industry responsible please! 😉

What was the one watch that inspired you both before starting, a watch from another maker? 

Well, actually watches Richard fell in love with when working in Switzerland and Germany: The Portugieser and the Tangente. Very classic,  timeless watches which still looking fresh today.

Which is your favourite from your own line up and why? 

Maria’s love is with Erwin named after her father after he passed away. Erwin is our basic Felix (Richard’s choice) with dead beat second so he became a little chubbier, like gentlemen in their 70’s.

How does the business model work for you guys? Was the commercial side something you had to work on or did it come naturally? 

We are in the lucky situation that we combine both in a couple. The technical part as well as the commercial with experience from former jobs in both fields. We both grew up (in Austria and GDR) facing hard work to be the regular way to go. In German we call it: “baking small breads”. We don’t trust in marketing bubbles and a lot of noise and don’t need to include in our lifestyle what is considered luxury. We grow and share our own vegetables rather than having dinner in gourmet restaurants. Simplicity has quality!   

What are you most proud of so far? 

There are quite a few things, but no one is particularly to mention. We are happy that we are still around while quite a few independent founders who started at the same time are not with their brands around. We are happy still being able to be ourselves and do what we like with whom we like. And we are happy that the recent stress-test (Covid-19) showed that our business model - though being small and sometimes amusing business pro’s – turned out quite crisis resistant.

Would you be able to give us a little teaser of which model is next to come...

One of our oldest kids and signature product, the Foudroyante, lost weight after ten years and so shrinked in it’s younger brother Felix suit: Foudroyante-Felix in 38,5mm diameter.

For more info on Habring.

Ressence + Sotheby’s Watches Join Forces Against Coronavirus

Anyone who knows me, will know how passionate I am about Ressence. To me, there simply isn’t a brand out there challenging how time is read quite like Ressence. The kicker - knowing the team behind the brand, and they are the coolest dudes out! So when Ressence said it had partnered with Sotheby’s for a good cause, I was immediately onboard!

Joining forces against coronavirus, the project is to design a unique watch. For the first time ever, we all will have a shot at creating our own Type 1 Slim. The competition is open now, and run until 12 May (2pm GMT). The winning design will be selected by Belgian designer and Ressence founder Benoît Mintiens. The successful designer will have their name engraved on the case of the piece. The unique piece will be offered in Sotheby’s Hong Kong “Important Watches” auction on 11 July. Proceeds from the sale will support the Covid-19 Research Programme at KU Leuven University in Belgium.

Full details here.

DOXA Launches SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US DIVERS

I was sitting around the dinner table last week at my pals family home, when his father said “oh, I have a dive watch”. What he whipped out blew me away. A 1970,s all original Sharkhunter DOXA. Now, Iv admired the rubestness of DOXA for some time now, but never had the chance of handling one - wow.

So when I saw DOXA had launched this new carbon Aqua Lung, I was fired up. limited to 300 pieces, it makes the reconnection of two legendary brands, DOXA and Aqua Lung.

In 1967, DOXA launches the revolutionary SUB concept with the SUB 300, considered to be the first truly purpose-designed diver's watch that is also accessible to the general public. The radical innovations it introduces quickly make it the benchmark for professionals, too. Rated to 30 ATM, i.e. water resistance to a depth of 300 meters, it marked a first with a patented rotating bezel that allowed the diver to calculate and monitor no-decompression dive times based on the official US Navy dive tables. The watch soon also becomes easily recognizable because of another first: instead of the conventional black or white dials of the time, the SUB’s dial is bright orange. The legend begins.
 
Since then, DOXA has continuously perfected its diver's watches, and in particular the most emblematic of all, the SUB 300, which remains one of the rare diver's watches to have made its mark in Swiss watchmaking history. The legend lives on.
 
More than 50 years after its launch, true to its unique tradition of innovation, the legendary SUB 300 is now reinterpreted in carbon. The iridescent effect plays with reflections that change with the intensity of ambient light, making the watch more radical and contemporary. Far from the conventional classic black cases, the texture and colors of forged carbon are simply unique. Matte, raw, high-tech, the material seems both very compact and irregular. This very particular non-homogeneous pattern, achieved by working with randomly oriented carbon fibers, creates a subtle balance between the deference to its roots and the indomitable drive to break new ground – just as the SUB 300 did way back then. The watch is set to be £4'590.00, which for my money is a strong value proposition.

For further details, click here.

Zenith Launches Chronomaster Revival “Shadow”

I had the great pleasure of reporting for MR PORTER on its collaboration with BAMFORD and Zenith in 2019. The watch was stunning. It was the 50th anniversary of the seminal El Primero chronograph calibre and the brand nailed it!

This week, Zenith are back at it, with the Chronomaster Revival Shadow, the same A384 case as seen in the MR PORTER edition but this time in a killer microblasted Titanium. Hot damn! What a looker!! And at 37mm - its spot on!

The Shadow is highly legible, with grey counters and tachymeter scale subtly contrasting against the deep, matte black dial. The hands and applied markers are filled with white SuperLuminova that emits a bright green glow in the dark. The black rubber strap with a cordura-effect features a touch of white on the stitching, fixed to a microblasted titanium pin buckle that matches the stealthy finish of the case.

As you’d expect, the El Primero is visible through the display back.

I don’t own a Zenith - but if I did, it would definitely be a A384.

For more head over to Zenith direct.

Three To Watch: Bruun Rasmussen 22 April 2020 Wristwatch Auction

Ahead of the online auction on the 22nd April, I thought I would start a new online series called “Three To Watch”. It is a brief look at three highlights from the up and coming Bruun Rasmussen watch auction.

First up, Lot 2017 , a stunning Heuer Carrera, ref. 1153. It is a mechanical chronograph with manual winding, cal. 12 from the 1970s. The Carrera is one of the most notable vintage Heuer chronographs, with a stunning patinated dial and bright orange accents. Introduced in 1964, this 1153 boasts a tonneau-form case, silvered dial, grey sub-dials and tachymeter, and a bright orange chronograph hand. It is also 39 mm (which I would say is my sweet spot). The creamy markers are just spectacular. Vintage lovers are sure to find this Heuer a real treat. 

Next up is lot 2023, a funky Oris Diver Sixy-Five. a reincarnation of an old Oris diver watch that could be found in the collection circa fifty years ago. This reference is from 2010. The bubble curved sapphire crystal glass, distinctive black dial and retro shaped markers coated in Superluminova hark back to the 1960s but give the watch a clear and distinctive look. The vintage vibes of this Oris Sixty Five Divers don’t take away from the contemporary Oris 733 automatic movement that is kept hidden within the 40mm stainless steel case. The self-winding calibre equips this Sixty Five watch with hour, minute and seconds function, a date window at 6 o clock and a power reserve of 38 hours. It’s closed engraved case back, screw in security crown and black ceramic top ring with minute scale also makes this Oris watch for men a handy piece of equipment for use in water by ensuring its water resistance of 100 metres. The watch is accompanied by original Oris outer-box, box, manual and certificate from authorized retailer Watches & Jewellery in Copenhagen Airport from 2015.

To finish, lot 2021is not one you will be likely to see in the wild. This 2017 reference Atelier Wen is a combination of the best of Asia and Switzerland. Atelier Wen is the creation of two friends who were looking to celebrate Chinese horology. Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron met while studying in England, combined their horological passion and business acumen to develop a brand they hope one day will come to represent “the new Chinese chic.” They aim to source the best components and skills in China, and then couple that with cultural influence and inspiration to match. The reference we have up for grabs is the Porcelain Odyssey, ref. ''Hao''. Mechanical movement with automatic winding, cal. Peacock SL-3006. It boasts a white porcelain dial (no mean feat!) with blue hour markers and hands. Blue Atelier Wen calfskin strap with C-type buckle of steel. Watch diameter 39 mm and a Limited edition no. 127/250. Accompanied by original box, leather pouch and certificate from Atelier Wen. 

A noteworthy feature for this watch is the subdial. The character to the left is ''You'' (酉) and bottom right is ''Mao'' (卯), representing the hours from 5PM to 7PM and 5AM to 7AM respectively. This type of horology is a direct reference to an ancient measurement system called ''12 Earthly Branches'', in which each branch represents a two-hour period. Furthermore, the case-back is decorated with a Chinese animal of legend, Kunpeng, used as an allegory for the concept of Ying and Yang.

For further details click here.

Watch List: Vintage Hamilton W10

This right here is a barn find folks. Wowza, what a beauty! Recently I’ve become hooked on military watches. There’s just something about the tritium painted dials, the scratched cases and the joy of wondering where it had been. Hamilton reissued this watch in 2019, so to find an original is cool. A piece from the seller:

“W10 means army issue,6645 is NATO reference for watch,99 shows that it is UK issue,1570 is the serial number and 73 is the year of issue.

I bought the watch almost 40 years ago from a military auction in Donnington and it has been in the box never used since then”.

Does it get any better? This sucker on a grey Nato - yes! Good luck all!

Here is the link.

The Lockdown

This came in from a mate of mine in New York. It hd to be shared.

“I draw a lot of inspiration from my soon to be 94 year old mother. She is still in good health and spirits. She fled Lithuania as a young girl in the closing days of World War 2 as the Eastern Front was collapsing. They were about a day behind the retreating Germans and about a day ahead of the advancing Russians. She said that as the wagon train of refugees was headed west, some days the Germans would shoot at them because they wanted them to stay and fight. Some days, the Russians would shoot at them because they didn't want them to leave. When I saw her 2 weeks ago (still talk to her every day) she said "Yeah this shit is bad, but at least nobody is bombing us". Wound up in a DP Camp in Germany for 5 years before coming to the US. And no matter what, how ever bad whatever situation she was in, she always just shrugged her shoulders and said "Okay, been through worse".

UNDER ARMOUR AD 2020

There are few adverts on TV that fire me up. This one did.

Watch List: Tudor Submariner 89"

I tend to spend my days around mechanical watches for work (its not really - I love it). I was born in 1989 and every watch lover dreams of owning a watch form their year of birth. This might just be my birth year grail:

"Easy Decisions - Hard Life, Hard Decisions - Easy Life"

Magazines

Why is it that we keep some and not others? Even when a product is “evergreen”, do we actually ever come back to it? Having had a chat about it over other weekend with friends, I realised that its probably only two magazines, Cereal and HODINKEE that I keep and come back to. While I love Monocle, I enjoy it and pass it on. What do you keep and why?

Social Networking At Its Best

“In the end the best ‘social network’ turned out to be small group chats with close friends.” — Craig Mod

Inventions

“Humans were always far better at inventing tools than using them wisely” Yuval Noah Harari

Family

At what point does one move from the family set up they knew, typically with a mother and father (but not always) to their own? Is it when children come? Is it in married? The passing of the baton - a fascinating time.

2020

Are goals the right thing? I spoke to a mate this morning who told me his goal this year was to have no goals. He went on to say that they tend to put too much pressure on him, and that consistency was his only theme - I liked it..a lot. Do goals work for you? Let me know below in the comments:

The Power And Downside To A Logo

I saw a dude wearing a Patagonia jumper on the train today. These were cool once I thought. If it didn’t have the logo on it, it would still be cool. Just a thought.

Tony Fadell On Steve Jobs

What did you learn from Steve ?

“Storytelling, storytelling, storytelling”

Hand Dryers

Is there anything more disappointing than a poor hand dryer. You know the ones, yours hands are dripping profusely and all you need is power and heat - when you get neither, it’s almost as disappointing as that managers handshake when you walk out that curry house - limp and pitiful.

Memory

Does it ever worry you that when you look back you tend to only remember a hazy outline of an event? It does for me.

Iv been thinking a lot about it recently. How could a moment be so great without a huge amount of clarity or colour around what actually happened. We tend to only recall the general vibe (if anything at all).

We take photos and journal to try and capture moments in time as well as trying to be present in the moment - is that good enough? What other option do we have. Memory is a funny beast.