Top 5 Lots At Phillips Auction 5

Its auction season again. And no-one touches Phillips when it comes to vintage watches. The fifth instalment of the Phillips in association with Bacs & Russo sale is taking place In Geneva on the 13-14th May 2017. Having had the privilege of seeing the lots in London this week, I can confirm there is lots to get the humble watch geek's pulse racing! Here are my top 5 (with some literature from Phillips on the lots provonance). 

1. 1967 Rolex launched the Sea-Dweller

In 1967 Rolex launched the Sea-Dweller dive watch, which established a new standard in performance and technology with its incredible depth rating of 2000 feet, or 610 meters, and the first ever integration of a helium escape valve (HEV). This advanced design allowed divers to dive deeper, and keep track of dive times without fear the watch may fail. Rolex developed the HEV in order to allow tiny helium atoms, which built up within the case during dives, to be released, thus reducing the risk of potential failure. When first released, Rolex was still working towards the patent for this new technology, and therefore early Sea- Dwellers were engraved with the wording “Patent Pending Rolex Oyster Gas Escape Valve” on the case back. 

Dating from 1967, the dial is a Mark 1 (Mk1) type with the double red printed Sea-Dweller on the first line, and Submariner 2000 on the second. The signature consisted of the red print placed on top of white, that over time, faded to a light pink tone. The Mark 1 dial is characterized by equal-sized fonts used for all words within these two lines of red text. The case back interior features the last three digits of the watch’s serial number - stamped 464, as well as IV.67. Furthermore, it’s fitted with its original Oyster bracelet, with a rare “Pat Pend”-signed extension piece.
 


Accompanied with extensive and original documentation, the watch was originally given “on loan” in 1971 by a Rolex authorized dealer based in Singapore. An employee of Divcon-Oceaneering AG at the time, he was asked by Rolex to test the watch and regularly provide status reports and images regarding the watch and its performance at sea. 

After providing in-depth analysis and test results, documenting the watch’s performance on oil-related dives in Indonesia and Malaysia, Rolex Geneva formally thanked him for his efforts in 1972. This letter also gifts the watch to the diver, after disclosing Rolex’s newly executed, exclusive agreement with COMEX that precluded them from working with other diving firms.


The owner’s records are the first official documents that show Rolex’s efforts to develop the HEV were not exclusive to COMEX. They are the most extensive set of documents, from original issue, to actual watch testing, to final communication from Rolex Geneva, to have surfaced for such an important dive watch.
 

Manufacturer: Rolex
Year: 1967
Reference No: 1665
Movement No: D049393
Case No: 2'117'464
Model Name: "Patent Pending" Sea-Dweller "Double Red" 
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 1570, 26 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Rolex Oyster, stamped 9315, 
end links stamped 285, 200mm max. length
Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel twin lock folding clasp, stamped 3.70
Dimensions: 39.5mm Diameter
Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed, outer case back signed "Rolex Patent Pending Oyster Gas Escape Valve"
Accessories: Accompanied by Storekeeper's Delivery Note No. 68719 (The Borneo Company Singapore SDN BHD) for loan of one Sea Dweller 1665, case number 2117464, various Rolex correspondence, dive reports and typed test results of the watch from the original owner.

Estimate
CHF100,000 - 200,000  
$99,100 - 198,000
€92,600 - 185,000

 

2.  Fifty Fathoms - Milspec I

Just after World War II, the offer of diver’s watches was low. When the French military combat divers’ elite troops’ captain Robert Maloubier and Lieutnant Claude Riffaud looked for a tool watch to accompany their frogmen in their missions, they were unable to find a watch that met all their requirements: a unidirectional rotating bezel , a water-resistant case, an automatic winding movement (to minimize the number of times the crown is pulled out) and protection from magnetic fields. By designing this watch, the two men actually set the standards for modern divers watches. While their search for a watch manufacture that would produce their watch was a daunting task, they met with Mr Fiechter, Blancpain’s CEO, the partner they had been looking for.

Since its launch in 1953, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms has gained iconic status within the watchmaking and diving world, having also undergone several variations. The present example is the very sought after MILSPEC I version with a humidity tester at 6 o’clock. Despite some military specifications, the present watch is a civilian version as shown by the two parts body case, the bi directional bezel and the luminous diamond hour marker at 12 o’clock. The back of the case is further engraved with the retailer’s name, in this case the diving equipment store Barakuda. 

Manufacturer: Blancpain
Year: circa 1970
Case No: 207'956
Model Name: Fifty Fathoms - Milspec I
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. AS 1700., 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Apollo Tropic strap, marked 20-21mm, reference 23055
Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel pin buckle
Dimensions: 41mm. Diameter
Signed: Case, dial and movement signed
Accessories: Accompanied by Blancpain Fifty Fathoms exhibition certificate and original paper tag from the 275th anniversary exhibition

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 30,000  
$19,800 - 29,700
€18,500 - 27,800

 

3. Patek Philippe Ref 530 

There are certain references of Patek Philippe wristwatches that can be considered the ultimate in terms of rarity, desirability, and aesthetic beauty. The oversized chronograph reference 530, such as the present lot, is without any doubt, one of these.

Reference 530 was first launched in 1937, and remains one of the rarest chronograph models manufactured by the firm. Even though it takes design cues from its sister model, reference 130, the case size of reference 530 remains substantial even to today’s standards with a whopping 36.5mm. diameter.


The case and dial design of the present lot hit all the right notes. The perfect equilibrium between the case diameter and thickness, the powerful lugs and concave bezel speak of highly contemporary elegance. The gorgeous silver dial has turned a pleasing vanilla, the crisp hard enamel printing and ultra rare Breguet numerals exude beauty and grace. 

The present lot is the only known reference 530 in yellow gold with Breguet numerals (as confirmed by the Extract from the Archives). Since its production in 1949 this watch has appeared on the international auction market once, in 2011, flying past its high estimate and breaking the world record for a yellow gold reference 530. 

DSCF4951.jpg

This reference 530 is not only rare but the Breguet numeral dial and incredible untouched condition give it almost a mythical status.

Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: 1949
Reference No: 530
Movement No: 867'650
Case No: 511'605
Material: 18K yellow gold
Calibre: Manual, cal. 13"", 23 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Leather
Clasp/Buckle: 18K yellow gold pin buckle signed PPCo
Dimensions: 36.5mm. Diameter
Signed: Case, dial, movement and buckle signed
Accessories: Accompanied by Patek Philippe Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture in 1949 with Breguet numerals and subsequent sale on August 12th, 1950.
Literature: Reference 530 is illustrated in Patek Philippe Wristwatches by Martin Huber & Alan Banbery, second edition, p. 265

Estimate
CHF300,000 - 600,000  
$297,000 - 595,000
€278,000 - 556,000

 

4. Patek Philippe 3700/11

The most interesting elements about Gerald Genta’s iconic designs are the stories that lay behind their creation. Recognized today as the greatest watch designer of the era with world famous successes such as Patek Philippe Nautilus, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Cartier Pasha, Universal Polerouter and many more, Mr Genta's creativity was boundless. The story behind the design of the Nautilus, besides the inspiration of the porthole, says that the designer sketched one of the most sought after designs in history in 5 minutes while watching Patek Philippe executives sitting in a corner of a hotel dining room. 


The present Nautilus Jumbo reference 3700/11 displays a definitely unique vintage look. The usually dark grey dial has dramatically turned to a gold tropical color that reminds us of a tiger’s eye chatoyant gemstone with its golden to red-brown color and silky lustre. 

Manufacturer: Patek Philippe
Year: 1980
Reference No: 3700/11
Movement No: 1'309'286
Case No: 540'831
Model Name: Nautilus "Jumbo" 
Material: Stainless steel
Calibre: Automatic, cal. 28-255C, 36 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Stainless steel Nautilus bracelet, max length 195mm. 
Clasp/Buckle: Stainless steel folding deployant clasp
Dimensions: 42mm. Diameter
Signed: Case, dial, movement and bracelet signed
Accessories: Accompanied by an Extract from the Archives confirming manufacture of the watch in 1980 and its subsequent sale on May 11th, 1982

Estimate
CHF40,000 - 60,000  
$39,600 - 59,500
€37,100 - 55,600

 

5. Gübelin Chronograph 

Gübelin is a Swiss-based, family-owned, jewelry and watch retailer founded in 1854. What started out as a small watchmaker’s watch shop in the picturesque town of Lucerne has today become a Swiss powerhouse selling the most prestigious watch brands. 

Not content with putting its signature on dials next to the names of famous brands it retailed, Gübelin decided, in the early 1920s, to commission some of the greatest Swiss makers such as Audemars Piguet, Haas Neveux or Niton to create unique, attractive and sophisticated watches bearing solely the Gübelin signature on the dial.

The present lot from the 1950s is a mystery in the sense that Phillips say they have never seen another Gübelin square chronograph like it on the market. Its vividly contemporary 34mm. X 34mm. white gold case wears much larger on the wrist than the size suggests due to its square shape. The case is in fact quite similar if not identical to the Rolex reference 3529 but larger. 

Many elements set the present lot apart from other square chronographs from prestigious brands such as Rolex, Universal Geneve or Mathey-Tissot produced in the 1940s-1950s. First is its sheer size, almost 70% larger than those from the previously mentioned brands whose cases measured 26mm X 26mm or less. The second element is the white gold case, a metal we have not yet seen before in any other square chronograph of that era. These elements lead us to believe that this watch was executed upon special order and could quite possibly be a unique piece.

The case is superbly well preserved with perfectly crisp hallmarks above the bottom chronograph pusher and the top left lug, we are of the opinion the case has never been polished. 
 

Manufacturer: Gübelin
Year: circa 1950
Case No: 165'649
Material: 18k white gold
Calibre: Manual, cal.72, 17 jewels
Bracelet/Strap: Leather
Clasp/Buckle: 18k white gold buckle
Dimensions: 34mm. X 34mm.
Signed: Case, dial and movement signed

Estimate
CHF20,000 - 40,000  
$19,800 - 39,600
€18,500 - 37,100

Podcast Review: How Haim Saban Went From Refugee To Billionaire

Image: The New Yorker 

Image: The New Yorker 

As a regular reader of these pages you will be aware that one of my favourite prodcasts is 'How I Built This' by NPR. Its a podcast about innovators, entrepreneurs, and idealists, and the stories behind the movements they built. 

On the first warm day in London this year I had the pleasure of stumbling across this episode as I crossed Putney Bridge. Nothing could have prepared me for the introduction from Mr Saban:  

"I have to tell you that the biggest hits I have had in my life and in music and in television and in business have always been as a result of significant rejections and repeated rejections. So every time I have an idea, and people tell me 'no don't do that'..I think oops I'm onto something" 

As a serial ideas man and wannabe entrepreneur, nothing could have shook me to the core quite like it. I'd be lying if I said there wasn't a tear in the eye! Anyone that has ever attempted to build anything will tell you of the heartache and tears it caused. And damn right! because nothing without effort if worth celebrating. And no one sums that ethos up more than Mr Haim Saban. As a refugee growing up in Tel Aviv, Mr Haim Saban remembers not having enough money to eat. As an adult, he hustled his way into the entertainment business, writing theme songs for classic cartoons like Inspector Gadget and Heathcliff. But producing the mega-hit Mighty Morphin Power Rangers put him on track to becoming a billionaire media titan. He his a highly amusing and deeply inspiring gent. This one isn't to be missed! 

Listen to the full episode here

 

 

 

What To Buy: Roger Dubuis Open Doors At Harrods

If you're a watch geek like myself - this news will be like music to your ears.

Just when you thought the London's watch scene couldn't get any better - Roger Dubuis open a flagship boutique within Harrods.  

This is the first ever UK Roger Dubuis boutique in the UK. The concept and construction has been overseen directly by the brand’s Creative Director, Alvaro Maggini, and it is heralded as strategically important by CEO, Jean-Marc Pontroué.

 

Roger Dubuis watches aren't for everyone. And this was echoed by CEO Mr Jean-Marc Pontroué when I interviewed him in Harrods last year during their pop up.  As well as stressing their rarity, he also expressed his interest in London and its importance in the watch world. So this opening is not all together unsurprising. Not only are their designs bold, their prices can be eye watering. Thats why Roger Dubuis is where you go when you have everything. 

 

Human Performance: 5 Ways To Be Happier For Longer

How do we achieve happiness in the digital age? With more noise in our lives than ever before - Harvard psychologist Shawn Achor argues that happiness inspires us to be more productive.  What's fascinating is that external conditions can only predict 10% of our long term happiness.

Image: David Heitz

Image: David Heitz

Here are 5 actions you can implement today to be happier for longer : 

Small Changes that ripple outward: 

  1. 3 Gratitudes 
  2. Journaling 
  3. Exercise 
  4. Meditation 
  5. Random acts of kindness 

Human Performance: A Practical Guide To Changing The World

I'm not quite sure speeches of any kind get much bigger that this one delivered by Naval Admiral William H. McRaven at The University of Texas on May 17, 2014. It's a real, real shame that only 4.4 million people have had the privilege to watch this thus far. And it's my mission to ensure this man and this speech get the recognition they deserve. If you're ever in doubt, ever feel as though you can't go on - get this on. 

 

(Image NY Times)

 

Here are the take away points: 

1. If you want to change the world, start by making your bed.


“If you can’t do the little things right, you will never do the big things right.”

 

2. If you want to change the world, find someone to help you paddle.


“You can’t change the world alone—you will need some help— and to truly get from your starting point to your destination takes friends, colleagues, the good will of strangers and a strong coxswain to guide them.”

 

3. If you want to change the world, measure a person by the size of their heart, not the size of their flippers.


“SEAL training was a great equalizer. Nothing mattered but your will to succeed. Not your color, not your ethnic background, not your education and not your social status.”

 

4. If you want to change the world get over being a sugar cookie and keep moving forward.
 

“Sometimes no matter how well you prepare or how well you perform you still end up as a sugar cookie*.”

*For failing the uniform inspection, the student [in Basic SEAL training] had to run, fully clothed into the surfzone and then, wet from head to toe, roll around on the beach until every part of your body was covered with sand.

The effect was known as a “sugar cookie.” You stayed in that uniform the rest of the day—cold, wet and sandy. There were many a student who just couldn’t accept the fact that all their effort was in vain. Those students didn’t understand the purpose of the drill: You were never going to succeed. You were never going to have a perfect uniform.

 

5. If you want to change the world, don’t be afraid of the circuses.
 

“Life is filled with circuses. You will fail. You will likely fail often. It will be painful. It will be discouraging. At times it will test you to your very core.”

 

6. If you want to change the world sometimes you have to slide down the obstacle head first.

 

7. If you want to change the world, don’t back down from the sharks.
 

“There are a lot of sharks in the world. If you hope to complete the swim you will have to deal with them.”

 

8. If you want to change the world, you must be your very best in the darkest moment.
 

“At the darkest moment of the mission—is the time when you must be calm, composed—when all your tactical skills, your physical power and all your inner strength must be brought to bear.”

 

9. If you want to change the world, start singing when you’re up to your neck in mud.
 

“If I have learned anything in my time traveling the world, it is the power of hope. The power of one person—Washington, Lincoln, King, Mandela and even a young girl from Pakistan—Malala—one person can change the world by giving people hope.”

 

10. If you want to change the world don’t ever, ever ring the bell.

“In SEAL training there is a bell. A brass bell that hangs in the center of the compound for all the students to see. All you have to do to quit—is ring the bell. Ring the bell and you no longer have to wake up at 5 o’clock. Ring the bell and you no longer have to do the freezing cold swims. Ring the bell and you no longer have to do the runs, the obstacle course, the PT—and you no longer have to endure the hardships of training. Just ring the bell. If you want to change the world don’t ever, ever ring the bell.”